Saturday, August 6, 2016

Of Afghans, Empty Stomachs and Dust

The end of the Pamir Highway has brought us to Dushanbe. I can now wear the T-shirt. Wet, because it's extremely hot. We start cycling at 0500 in the mornings to beat the heat which means my alarm goes off at 03h30. Even the demons are asleep then.

Dushanbe Iis the biggest city in Tajikistan and means Monday after a famous market that was held here on Mondays. I don't think the Boomtown Rats ever made it to this market.

The cities claim to fame is the second largest flag pole in the world. Fascinating if you are into poles. They are also capable of fixing cracked iPhone screens which I am very happy about. Now I can see whom I'm sending Whatsaps to.

Many people got sick on the last rest day. Moi included. I strongly suspect it was because of the ice cubes in our beer. One can correctly wonder why the custom of ice cubes in beer? It is because these people don't understand the finesses of refrigeration. The only way to stomach a beer is to cool it in the river or to use ice.

It was no fun to stomach the Pamir Highway on an empty stomach. But there was the fringe benefit to be able to through up without getting of your bike. One doesn't even have to remember where the wind is coming from because it's always from the front. Since Beijing. And with a bit of luck someone might pass that you don't really like.

The last six days looked like this with the road being between a high range of Tajikistan mountains on the  right and a high range of Afghanistan mountains and a river on the left and never the twain meets.

Mountains and the Afghanistan Road which looked even more terrible than our road. If that is possible. But it is possible because we only saw donkeys on that road. No cyclists.

And a few cows.


Flats for sale on the Afghanistan side. River view.

Looking for sexy clothes to wear in Iran at the Afghan market. Good advice from the shopkeepers.


The topless beach on the Afghanistan side.

The bridge in the background where the Afghan people push their wheelbarrows full of stuff to sell across to Tajikistan. I bought some safety pins because I'm so thin now that my arm warmers fall off when I ride on bumpy roads. Which is always.

Road kill that did not end up in the pot. Not that I could noticed anyway. But the bacon did taste a bit wild the other morning.

A treacherous task when two cars try to pass.

My new family. I don't think I shall have to wait too long to inherit his flock of goats. 

A rich man ( not the goat owner)built a temple on a rock. He wasn't available for a photograph. He might be on Tinder though.

One of many camps on the shores of the river. Hoping that it won't flood or no earthquakes or no landslides.


An Afghan at the market in a typical Afghan position.

A new dimension to recycling.

One of the few bridges connecting Tajikistan and Afghanistan.

No it's not my skin after 2,5 months on the road, it's a particularly bad section of the Pamir Highway.

From bad to dust.

From dust to worsest.

Yes it is a road.

Workers at a petrol station in a rare sitting position. Default position is lying on the bed. Which is what any sensible person would do in this heat.

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